9-Story Bhora Sahib Gurdwara at Baba Bakala: The ‘Place of Penance’ of Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji
I bow my head in honor of the ninth Guru, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji. His life and legacy are deeply connected with this holy place in Amritsar district, which is a few miles away from the Beas bridge. I had the privilege to visit the holy Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib in the city of Baba Bakala, Amritsar district. This city is rich in Sikh history and is associated with the ninth Sikh Guru, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji. This journey felt like a spiritual one—a profound experience that filled my heart with endless blessings and awakened a feeling of devotion within me. In this article, I will share the fascinating story of Baba Bakala, the search for the true ninth Guru, and the significance of Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib. Also, I will include my personal experience, photos, and videos to truly capture the essence of this heart-touching journey.
A Historical Center of Sikh Spirituality
Baba Bakala, a town of historical significance, became the residence of the sixth Sikh Guru, Sri Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji, in the 1640s, and later of Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji. It was a vibrant town adorned with beautiful pools, wells, and ‘baolis’ (stepwells), where one could feel a sense of prosperity and peace. Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji led a life of devotion and meditation in Bakala with his wife and mother. Along with this, he also fulfilled his family responsibilities and traveled east to places like Patna (Bihar), Assam, and Delhi. In Delhi, he met the eighth Sikh Guru, Sri Guru Harkrishan Ji (also known as the “Bal Guru” or Child Guru) twice.
Ambiguity and Impostors
While residing in Delhi, Guru Harkrishan Ji, who was only eight years old at the time, fell ill with smallpox. When asked about his successor, he cryptically replied, “Baba Bakale”, meaning the next Guru would be found in Bakala. On March 30, 1664, he merged with the divine. Taking advantage of this ambiguity, several impostors emerged and began claiming to be the ninth Sikh Guru. Around 22 people declared themselves as the true Guru, including Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji’s influential nephew, Dhir Mall. The confused Sikh community was unable to determine who the true Guru was among so many claimants.
Arrival of Baba Makhan Shah Lubana
Amidst the confusion and chaos, a crucial turning point came with the arrival of Baba Makhan Shah Lubana, a trader from Jhelum district. A transformative turn in his life occurred when his ship was caught in a violent storm, and he prayed earnestly to God and Guru Nanak Dev Ji for safety. In his prayer, he vowed that if he reached the nearest port safely, he would donate five hundred dinars to the Guru. True to his word, Baba Makhan Shah Lubana’s ship arrived safely and he went to Delhi, where he learned about the passing of Guru Harkrishan and found out that the next Guru was in Bakala.
Identification of the True Guru
Fulfilling his vow, Baba Makhan Shah Lubana decided to give only two dinars to each claimant. He believed that the true Guru would know exactly how much he had vowed to donate. Lacking spiritual insight and good character, the impostors were satisfied with just two gold coins. As expected, none of them recognized him as the true donor. But Baba Makhan Shah Lubana faced a dilemma – if none of these was the true Guru, then where was the true Guru? Then a child told him about a saint named Tegh Bahadur, who was sitting in meditation nearby and who had made no such claim about himself.
A Life-Changing Experience
Baba Makhan Shah Lubana went to Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji and offered him two gold mohurs (coins), just as he had given to the impostor Gurus. He was surprised when Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji politely interrupted him and said that he had broken his promise. The Guru reminded him of the 500 gold mohurs he had vowed to donate while praying for his safety during the storm. Moved by the Guru’s words, Baba Makhan Shah Lubana declared that he would tell everyone that he had found the true Guru, even though Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji warned that doing so might bring him humiliation. Undeterred, Baba Makhan Shah Lubana smeared ash on his face and climbed onto the roof to prove his devotion. From there, he proclaimed to the entire village of Bakala, “Guru Ladho Re” (which means “The Guru is found” in Lubanki, the language of the Labana community). Due to this courageous act, all those fakes and self-proclaimed Gurus left that place, and that village is now known as Baba Bakala.
Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib
A sacred place of divine presence: this was the place where Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji chose to reside and meditate on God’s name for 26 years, 9 months, and 13 days. Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib represents this crucial period in Sikh history. Today, the nine-story building of this Gurdwara signifies the spiritual heights and the connection with God that the ninth Guru, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji, experienced during his stay here. The serene environment here, the rhythmic recitation of Gurbani, and the spiritual energy emanating from this holy place filled me with deep awe and devotion.
A Personal Journey of Blessings and Devotion
As I stepped into Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib, I was filled with a sense of gratitude. I felt truly blessed standing on this holy land; this is the very place where the true Guru, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji, lived, meditated, and imparted his divine wisdom to humanity. The profound history and spiritual significance of this place stirred my soul, deepened my devotion, and strengthened my faith. The atmosphere there was filled with love, unity, and devotion, where devotees from all walks of life had gathered to bow their heads and find peace in the eternal teachings of Sikhism.
A Final Word
My visit to Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib in Baba Bakala was a memorable experience, leaving indelible memories of spiritual bliss and divine connection in my heart. Baba Makhan Shah Lubana’s search for the true Guru is a great example of the unwavering faith and devotion of the followers of Sikhism. Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib, with its tranquil atmosphere and rich historical significance, is a source of the light of enlightenment and a sanctuary for seekers of truth. May the blessings of Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji continue to guide and inspire us on our spiritual paths, leading us towards unity, compassion, and eternal peace.
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